Woodwork Adirondack Glider Chair Plans (Step By Step Guide)

Last Updated on April 1, 2024 by Sharaj

Patio furniture is expensive. Aren’t they? However, you cut down the cost and customize such pieces of wooden structures with your woodworking skills. Building such a furniture also gives you an idea of your expertise level.

Today, we will learn how to make a Loveseat Glider Rocker inspired by the comfortable Adirondack chair design. Glider rockers are perfect for two individuals; no matter they sit directly on the wood or choose cushions. Their rocking motion is smooth that makes it a perfect place to enjoy your drink on the weekends.

The project is not very difficult, but it’s time-consuming. So, plan. You can use pine or hardwood. Redwood would be great for staining and poplar if you want to paint the newly built structure. No matter what you choose, but if you have proper tools and skills, then you will get a structure that will gather many compliments from your family and guests.

Difficulty Level: Moderate

Required Time

30 to 40 Hours for woodworking

20 to 30 for finishing

Recommended Tools:

  • Marker or pencil
  • Wrenches or socket set
  • Table saw
  • Circular saw, or compound mitre saw can be better
  • Band saw
  • Power drill
  • Random orbital sander
  • Countersink pilot hole drill bit

Required Materials

  • One 1 by 6 x 6-feet wood log
  • Ten 2 by 4 x 8-feet wood log
  • Twelve 1 by 4 x 8-feet wood log
  • Once 1 by 4 x 8-feet hardwood of choice
  • One set of 8 glider rocker bearings and hardware
  • Once ¼ inch deck screws
  • Some ½ inch deck screws
  • Woodworking glue

Step 1: Build The Base

Rocking Chair The Base

The first step is to build a base using a band saw. You have to use the 2 by 4 wooden block for the base and cut it according to your choice of style. Now, cut two 2 by 4 blocks at 16 inches each using a mitre or circular saw. Round all the four corners at one-inch radius utilizing the band saw again. We will use these pieces to be the top of the bases.

The next step is to cut four 2 by 4 wooden logs at 15 ½ inches. These pieces will work as a vertical block for the base. You also need to cut two 2 by 4 wooden logs at 42-inch length, which will work as the top and bottom spreaders.

Prepare your table saw with a dado blade to make some half-lap joints into the base materials, including the foot, top and a couple of vertical blocks on each side of the base. All the lap joints should be the same width of the jointer and depth should be its half. The fitting should be snug, not very tight.

With half-lap joints made on all the pieces, test assemble them to make sure that are recognizing each other well. If the structure looks good, then use some woodworking glue and then a power drill to make countersunk holes for some 1 1/4″ deck screws.

Sand both the base sides, but remember and safeguard the curved cuts that you made using the band saw. Install the spreaders between the two base sides. These spreaders should sit in the centre of the top and bottom of the bases. Use a 2 ½ inch deck screws to attach them.

Step 2: Prepare The Sides

Rocking Chair Sides

Once the base of our wooden structure is ready, we will focus on building its sides. To start the process, you need to use a mitre or circular saw to cut two 2 by 4 wooden blocks at 22 1/8 inches for the bottom pieces, three at 20 inches that we will use for the support and two of them at 28 inches for the front. Lastly, you will need a couple of pieces at a 29 inch lengthwise and 15-degree mitre angle at each end.

Use the band saw to make a 3 ½ inch radius cut on each end of the two bottom pieces. Also, cut the angles on the three support blocks. Make sure you cut these three wooden pieces accurately because they will be responsible to hold the seat slats and your weight for comfortable sitting.

The third step involves the usage of the table saw that’s ready with a dado blade. You need to use the table saw to make lap joints in both the bottom pieces. Lap joints should be also present at the bottom of both back and front blocks. Keep in mind that you need to cut the half lap of the rear block at 15 degrees.

Connect the pieces with their respectable lap joints, use woodworking glue and some1 ¼ inch deck screws. Then, attach one of the seat slat support blocks on the inside of each end using some 2 ½ inch deck screws. On the right side of this char, the support will be on its left and vice versa. Remember the same for long-lasting support and comfort.

Step 3: Attach The Spreaders

Spreaders Chair Sides

As we are ready with two important components of the loveseat glider rocker, now it’s time to join them using the spreaders. So use the circular or mitre saw to two 1 by 4 wooden blocks at 51 inches in length.

Use a power drill to make some 2 ½ inch countersunk holes and attach one of them at the front and other at the back of two ends.

Make sure that you attach these blocks square to the sides. Mark a centre point on both the spreaders and attach the middle slat to make sure that everything falls in place.

Step 4: Attach The Back Spreader

Now we have joined the seat spreaders with the slats, it’s time to add the rear spreader that will hold the back slats of the Adirondack chair. To do that, you need a section of 1 by 4 wood log to 55 inches.

You can get this using a circular or mitre saw. Once you have the cut, you need to use a band saw to make 2-inch radius cuts on both the corners of the board.

Once you have the block ready, you should finish it using a sander. Use a pencil to make a mark perpendicular to the longest axis of the board. Make this mark two inches in from the end of this board.

Then, attach this board to the top of the angled backboards. Its two-inch mark should match the external edges of the angled backboards of the side assemblies. Drill and use some 2 ½ inch deck screws to fix all the components together.

Step 5: Attach The Back Slats

The next step on the building block is to attach the support slats for your back. You need to install the slats temporarily, mark the curves and remove them. Use the band saw to cut according to the curves and then you need to install the slats permanently.

To start the process, you need to use the mitre saw to cut eight 1 by 4 boards at 38 inches in length and other eight 32 inches long. Also, cut two 1 by 4 lumbers with a width of ½ inches. These two pieces will work as spacers.

We should start placing the slats starting from the middle and then move outwards to provide them even space. So, find the centre point of the rear spreader and make a mark on the inside, where we will install the slats. Then, make a mark at ¼ inches from the centre mark on both the spreaders.

Take the 32-inch backboards and use a band saw to cut notch ½ inch wide by 3 1/2-inch long. You need to place these notches around the centre of the spreader. Attach both the boards using countersunk 1 ¼ inches deck screws from the backside, wherein the screws will pass through the spreader. Make sure that the boards are square on the side of the spreader.

The next step is to attach the 38-inch blocks to each side of the first two. At last, you need to attach the 32-inch back slats that should notch around the two supportive blocks.

Step 6: Attach The Sitting Slats

Once you attach the rear slats, make sure you finish them using a sander. Finish it and move towards installing the seat slats that will withstand your weight. To start, you need to use a circular saw to cut four sections of 1×4 to 48 inches in length and one at 51 inches.

Then, use the band saw to cut notches in the same side of each end of the block 1 ½ inch from the ends and 1 ¾ inch from the long edge. These notches will allow the boards to attach against the vertical poles of the seat sides.

Drill some holes on the boards that you are going to attach. Use a power drill for the same and make sure that all the holes can accommodate 1 ¼ inch deck screws. Position these notched boards over the seat support blocks, so that all the notches are in flush with their vertical poles.

Place one of the 48-inch slats and tighten it using an impact driver. Place another one and follow the same process. Align the external edges of all the stats, so that the chair can look continuous.

Step 7: Attach The Rocker Arm

Rocking Chair Arm

Our next task is to cut and attach the rocker arm and bearings. The chair and its building components can be of any wood according to your choice. However, the rocker arm has to be hardwood, because it’s the component that will hold the overall weight of the chair as well as the sitting individuals.

Use your mitre saw to cut four 1 by 4 hardwood sections to 14 inches in length. Round up their corners with 1-inch radius utilizing a band saw. Make marks at 1 ½ inch in from each end of the boards. These are the points where you need to install the bolts and bearings.

You should also make the marks for bearings on the external edges of the side assembly. All the marks should be 1 ¾ inch from the ends of the rounded top and 1 ¾ inch down from the top side. We need four markings on the internal sides of the curved bottom boards at the base of the chair.

These marks should be 1 ½ inch upwards from the bottom. For better results, measure 8 ½ inches back from the front side of the curved chair base block and 6 inches forward from the rear end of the chair base. Mark these points accordingly for a better adjustment.

The bearing assembly should include bolts, eight bearings, washers, nuts, and some ½ inch pan head screws. To attach these components, the first thing you need are some holes that you need to drill at the marking points.

All these holes will accommodate the bearing bolt heads, so it should be countersink with both the base and the chair. On the other hand, rocker arms should have through holes that must countersink width of the washers on the opposite sides of the block to adjust the nuts.

Finally, you need to sand the rocker arm and attach it to the existing structure using a socket set that will easily tighten the nuts.

Step 8: Add Extra Back Support

Next task is to attach some added support to the back slats. We will fit one wooden block to the rear seat, but it will not make contact with the primary frame. Still, this block will provide lateral support to the back slats.

Use the mitre saw to cut one 1 by 4 to 44 inches, according to its length. Sand it properly before you install it on the Adirondack Loveseat Glider Rocker. Now, measure 13 inches down from the top of the tallest rear slat and mark the point.

Now, place the 44-inch block over the back slats, so that its upper end touches the mark you just made. Attach it using 1 1/4″ deck screws using a driller first and then an impact driver. We recommend that you drill the block before installing it to the existing structure.

Step 9: Attach The Armrests

Rocking Chair Armrests

The last step is to cut and install the armrests as well as support. Cut two 1 by 6 to 26inches of length. Lay the armrests, cut the curves and angled section using a band saw. You can also use a circular saw to cut the angled section.

Sand the armrests and drill some holes for countersunk 2 ½ inches deck screws. Now install them on the sides of the chair. The flat part of the armrests should face the sitting area and the back edge must flush with the top of the curved rear support rail. Fix them accordingly using some deck screws worth 2 ½ inches.

Now use the band saw and cut some front support for the armrests. You can try any of the designs according to your creativity level. Hereby, we are making at 3-inch wide by 5 ½ inch tall with a similar angle from the bottom towards upwards that matches the angle on the armrests.

Bring the supports perpendicular to the front posts and the long axis of the armrest on the outside of each front post. Attach them using 2 ½ inches of deck screws through the armrest and inside of the chair. You need to pre-drill these holes to accommodate the screws.

Now your Adirondack Loveseat Glider Rocker is complete apart from finishing. You can choose any of the ways to finish the wooden structure, but the best way is to paint it.

However, before you paint the chair, you should make sure that all its components are finished using a sander and all the screw holes are filled with wood putty. On the other hand, if you are preferring stained finish overpainting, then make sure you provide optimum protection using a top coating of polyurethane.

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